Day One – 1st July
All set to go, leaving home at 8am we set off turning onto Coolgardie-Esperance Hwy after the driver had to be reminded to take the third exit at the roundabout instead of the second, as was the daily habit heading to work. With memories of last year’s expensive adventure, travelling to the same destination in mind, we said a brief prayer asking for smooth and safe travels but not too boring.
All was going great….until just before Griffiths Rd which is around 50km from home. As we approached this road the passenger diligently noticed and with a great sigh that the Automatic Transmission overheating light had come on. Yes, this was the same light that faithfully indicated to us last year that our transmission was kaput. So you can imagine the heaviness as we realised that our journey was looking to in doubt just as we started.
A vague glimmer of hope came to light when a check of the oil revealed it was not black and burnt like it was a few km north of Sandfire Roadhouse 12 months earlier. Just to be sure, we turned towards home for a quick visit to a mechanic. It was a further comfort that the light had disappeared when turning the car back on and did not come on again on all the way back even when passing a road train at a higher than legal speed – I thought I might as well make sure the transmission was working or at least try to make sure it broke while close to home. Discussions were had about who might be willing to lend us a 4WD for a couple of weeks and a few reminders that we do really need a new car.
A couple of checks by the helpful mechanic showed nothing had flagged on the computer so we should be right to go, so we did.
It was with great relief that we passed Griffiths Rd about one and a half hours later without the dreaded light illuminating.
However, our hearts sunk again when the light came on around Scaddan – we had got 25km further than the first time. This time the driver figured – just send it. What is the worst that could happen?
Strangely the light was on for about 10km before going off again. Again relief but the driver was now curious, was there a pattern? Between Scaddan and Norseman the light went on and off three times. Each time it came on, I wondered if this was it. An oil check at Norseman showed the oil still the normal and desirable transparent with a red tint.
The decision was made that maybe the car did not like towing in 5th gear. From Norseman to Nandos in Kalgoorlie the light remained off. We were thankful that we did indeed find a pattern and that we should be fine – let’s keep going. That didn’t stop me looking what was available in the second hand lot of Toyota dealership across the road while the girls ordered their late lunch.
We decided that we were not going to make Leonora before dark and having done a detour to check out Niagra Dam while up that way for work, we made that our target for the night.
It was getting dark when we stopped half way along the road from the highway to the dam to pick up firewood. Not long after this our spotlights highlighted some black figures in the distance. Our natural thoughts were that these were cows wandering across the road which is quite normal on the highway let alone on this back road. Imagine our surprise when as got got closer we could make out that they were horses but not just any horses, they were Shetland ponies. They were not in any hurry to move off the road so we had to slow right down. Someone had an idea to see if they could be petted from the car window but everyone was a bit nervous whether they would be receptive or aggressive. With windows down and arms outstretched the ponies actually came close to the car and would have put their friendly noses into the car – if they were tall enough. There were close to a dozen and most of them seemed more interested in getting their heads scratched than moving out of the way.
After a few minutes of this entertaining distraction we were able to continue to our destination where we set up camp for the night.
Since Norseman we have had no dashlights indicating a potential stalling of our travel plans.
Day Two – 2nd July
After a quiet but very cold night, we woke up to a picturesque setting of an impressive man made structure that was constructed in futility amongst a backdrop of coloured rocks, small cliffs and moon surface like rocky craters. We started the day with a walk across the dam wall and doing a circuit past the debris catcher which hasn’t seen any action. The walk warmed our bodies a little bit but packing up with frozen fingers was a chore.
Having had the Day 1 delays we were behind schedule but can’t arrive in Broome until Day 4 anyway, so let’s see how far we get, hopefully it will be warmer tonight.
As it got later in the afternoon, we consulted WikiCamps to see where we could pull over before last light. About 60km south of Newman is an off road area which goes back a long way with plenty of room to house a city of caravans and campers. As far as we could tell there were only three lots of campers but we were so spread out that we may as well have been the only ones there.
Again a relatively peaceful yet very cold night (at least 4 degrees C minimum) with the distant noise of trucks passing in the night the only sound. A whole day has passed without that troublesome light flagging up on the dash.
Day Three – 3rd July
Once again we had breakfast and packed up in the not quite freezing conditions. We were determined not to drive the Newman to Marble Bar Rd this time. Last year we smashed the back window of the car and destroyed the trailer connection plug. It was a scenic route, but this year we turned left at Newman with the intent of stopping in for a quick dip at Fern Pool in Karajini around lunch time. It was the third day without a shower so a bath seemed like a good idea to most. The temperature at lunch was around 19 degrees C and we knew that the water was going to be cold but we are from Esperance, right. Fortunately, we had chosen the warmest pool in the park, according to the ranger, but it was still cold. Strangely the water coming down the rocks was actually warmer than the pool so it was worth the swim across.
After a quick catch up with some other Esp-Broome travellers, we headed off, most of us refreshed and rinsed.
The down side to taking the sealed road was the amount of four trailer 60m long road trains heading to Port Hedland. Stuck behind truck after truck, trusting our lives to complete strangers as they indicated it was safe to pass, it seemed we were heading nowhere fast at times.
At one point there was a truck that had broken down taking up one lane of a bridge. Fortunately we must have been one of the first on site and were able to pass with little more than slowing down a little. Others coming behind us and coming the other way were going to be in for some mayhem and slow going as there was no one to direct the constant flow of road train and caravan traffic to keep things moving in both directions.
Turning right about half way between Auski Roadhouse and Port Hedland we entered unfamiliar territory making our way towards Marble Bar. It was marked as completely unsealed on our map book which is 13 years old – it might be a bit out of dae but the plus side is that it doesnt need a mobile network to tell us where to go. The road was sealed for about 25km but then turned into a 60-80kmh track.
We were originally hoping to get to DeGray River for the night but after Karajini we figured we would get to Glen Herring Gorge, it seemed like a good place to stop, just short of Marble Bar. And it was.
With directions from Google Maps not being too helpful we turned off what seemed to be the only track heading in the general direction. After some doubtful moments with multiple direction changes and a track rarely travelled we arrived at our destination. It was the perfect time to arrive and explore before setting up camp. Just after 5pm the setting sun was highlighting the red rocks above and causing stunning reflections on the mirror like still pools of water below.
We had driven in as far as we could on the skinny and rocky two wheel track which meant that turning around with trailer on made for an interesting but achievable challenge.
We found a shady, somewhat grassed area, to set up camp and found that the ashes in the fireplace were still hot. While disapponting that campers would leave it this way, Kerry was able to successfully start the fire with some dry grass and a bit of blowing.
There is room at this spot for a number of campers but there were only two of us and we didn’t even really hear the others.
Day Four – 4th July
Another peaceful night, this time it we were thankful to not have to pack up with frozen fingers, as it was finally a bit warmer.
A photographer and his friend rocked up as we were preparing to pack up and after showing him photos from the afternoon before, he was adamant on returning later in the day.
In case you were wondering, still no ominous red light on the dash – even after passing multiple road trains yesterday and some offroading. I am still not game enough to try 5th gear though.
In order to avoid the hour long wait for fuel at Sandfire Roadhouse we decided to press on knowing that we wouldn’t quite reach the next fuel station but that we had 20L of spare fuel in the Jerry Can.
Not wanting to push the envelope, I made sure we stopped and added the extra fuel as soon as I could after the yellow light came on.
First stop in Broome – the car wash to rinse the dust off before setting up camp.
Day Five – 5th July
We thought we would be in for balmy nights and warm days. So we’re surprised that even though we needed a few less layers of clothing in bed A doona and fleecy blanket were still required and were only barely enough to keep the sub 10 degrees C at bay.
The cool wind and 25 degree maximum temperature meant that shopping for food and general supplies did not mean missing out on potential water activities today. We did go for a swim because that is what you do when in Broome, but discovered that it was very cool in – unlike this time last year and reminiscent of Esperance waters.
I had to do some renovations on the camping set up today given that we had set up for access and not taken into account the sun position. Even though we are practically on the beach front, the site is protected from the easterly winds and the sun heats up everything out of the camper from about midday to 3pm when some trees take the sting out of it. Travelling light I did not pack tent poles or the awning and had forgotten pegs and ropes so had to borrow some to rig up a verandah with a tarpaulin.
To pass some time I headed to the basketball court. Thinking I was going to just take a few shots I thought bare feet would suffice, and it did for a while. Along came a young teenager from Perth who, after a while asked if I would be up for some 1 on 1. It was a bit difficult to restrain myself and almost rolled my ankle taking a rebound. I lost 8 to 11 and now my feet are a bit raw from the concrete court.
Day Six – 6th July
Started off rather casually today heading into town to have a stroll around the streets to check out the different stores, including the Op Shops to see if there were any hidden treasures. Finding nothing that really stood out we proceeded to Town Beach to get a drink at the Cafe to find there was at least a half hour wait so didn’t bother.
While there we decided to take a walk on the tourist/fishing jetty which had been under construction this time last year. If there was an award for the shortest and tallest jetty, I think this would win. The tides are only around 7m at the moment, compared to the twice a year 10m king tides, but check out the difference between high and low in the following photos.
After lunch, Lauren took some girls up the beach in the Pajero to see how far they could get in an hour or so before their next adventure and before the tide got so high that they couldn’t get back. A short while later the phone rings and half expecting that she needed to be rescued, she advised that the pesky transmission light had come on. Further questioning revealed that the beach was soft and that the tyres had not been let down, so the poor car was working hard to get through. Letting the tyres down and switching to low range, the light went out and all returned safely.
Next, the teenager gang wanted to head to Gantheaume Point at high tide hoping to find the elusive natural infinity pool. Not wanting to miss out I decided to go too for some exploring of my own. Obviously not the right conditions for the pool, the teenagers decided to prove the law of gravity and jump off the rocks into the ocean. I have jumped off rocks into the water before, not these ones but others. Maybe I am getting old but I just know that it actually hurts hitting the water when jumping from those heights.
Preferring not to participate in or watch the, not quite, death defying antics, I headed off to explore the point.
While some of the group decided they were going out to dinner and then to play bingo run by drag queens, we decided that wasn’t for us and just chilled at camp for the evening.
Day Seven – 7th July
The Thursday afternoon before the competition begins is time for everyone to be involved. Teams of ten are formed and persons on that team selected by the captain are delegated events including a team building activity. Last year I was to be involved in a wading event and paddling a junior paddle board. The wading was not too bad but the paddle board was difficult to stay on and my arms quickly tired. I remember rounding the 2nd buoy and an old lady tickling my toes before scooting past, leaving me to finish last, I think. This year I had hopes of not getting in the water. Not only to avoid the cold but also to avoid drowning and or embarrassment. Give that there were only really two land based events – a team walk and the gruelling dune run, I volunteered for the dune run.
The picture below doesn’t really do it justice but you can get some idea about the size by using the small kids on the hill as a reference. The red line is the path that one person from each of the thirteen teams had to follow to compete.
I made comment when at Karajini the other day that the 277 steps down to the bottom of Fortescue Falls could be halved, if done two at a time. That being the case I was perhaps a little over confident at being in suitable condition to tackle this least desired event. I wasn’t quite fully exhausted by the time I entered the down slope of the first but had to resort to all fours not far up the second climb to make it to the marker cone.
Determined to finish I pushed past the pain and exhaustion barrier in order to round the peak and barely stopped myself falling to the ground and rolling towards the finish line. With encouraging cheers from my team members I crossed the line tenth, then proceeded directly to the water to cool down.
Thursday night is market night down on Town Beach so we thought we would check out the food vans for dinner. On arrival we came across several other Esperance families who were not associated with the Surfclub but just here on holidays and other for a wedding. WA is vast in size but small in so many other ways.
Day Eight – 8th July
I didn’t sleep much last night so felt a bit tired for most of the day, must have been the coffee I bought from the Cafe over the road from where we are staying. Still, not wanting to waste our time here, and to make up for time lost last year due to the car issues, I wanted to get out and have a look around.
We paired up with another family and head north towards Willie Creek but had to be back for competition in the early afternoon. The tide was out so had a quick duck into see a dry Coconut Wells before proceeding to Willie Creek Pearl farm.
The farm was further out than I remembered and by the time we got there, there was only time for a quick look around and an icecream, for some.
When we arrived back at camp and in the middle of having lunch, we were informed that the afternoon’s schedule had been cancelled.
The Broome club is in the middle of a building program and half their committee has Covid so they had to cut back a bit from the original program.
So, a quiet afternoon was on the cards and a swim in the cold ocean soon woke me up from my tiredness.
Day Nine – 9th July
Saturday morning and it is Competition day beginning with the beach events – sprints and flags. Firstly though we we all requested to participate in warm up exercises so we would he out our peak when the whistle blew.
There were more competitors in the Masters division and there was a distinct possibility that there would be a repeat of last year’s two heats and a final, which, along with the relays meant I physically could not participate in the flags event.
Fortunately, nobody else wanted to run the sprint twice either so, intimidated by the majority vote, the official reluctantly agreed to split the group into Over 55s and Under 55s.
As soon as that whistle blows I find it difficult to give anything less than 110% in an effort to cross the finish line first. Please note that this is my second sprint completion since high school, the other being last year at the same Carnival. Of course there is plenty of sprinting in basketball, but not for nearly the same distance.
Up against seasoned veterans of surf life saving who were roughly the same age as me, I was pleased to come 3rd. Given that points were awarded to 1st and 2nd only, I did feel slightly ripped off.
Next was the relay event. Again, it was run as two events so nobody had to race twice. Our team of four didn’t do too well in that one made worse by a poor baton changeover – it was difficult to grab it when the other runner was not holding it steady.
Only running two races allowed me to try the flag race this year. Last year I had run four sprints in 15min so could hardly walk let alone spring off the ground and run for flags.
My first experience of flags was less than 2 hours before the actual event during the warm up which was only the spring up part.
I had seen Lauren and others participate in this event on numerous occasions so I had picked up some hints. All that observation paid off as I got into the top 6 out of at least 15 experienced Masters. Got to be happy about that.
Today’s activities were concluded around midday. This was done on purpose as it allowed people to attend the Broome horse-racing in the afternoon, if they so desired. Up until this point in our holiday I had been contemplating hiring a jet ski but wasn’t sure when I could fit it in.
Knowing that we now had the afternoon free and the wind was dying down, this was it. My previous experience on a jet ski was three rides. One of which was the practical assessment for the Skippers Ticket. Since that occasion, which must have been about 12 years ago, I have not driven a boat or jet ski on my own.
Nevertheless, I thought, just do it. Only for an hour, but it was great fun and the girls enjoyed it too. The operators were amazed at Lauren’s skill as she performed 180’s and 360’s like a pro.
I wasn’t expecting Kerry to come and join us but she did make the long trek down Cable Beach, so I took her for a ride as well. Not long into the ride as I was zigging and zagging I felt Kerry’s grip around my waist loosen and heard a splash as she was tossed into the ocean by the centrifugal force of the turning Jetski. Fortunately she was not injured and was able to clamber back on board with a helping hand. A quick ride out to Gantheaume Point and back ended off our hire period. It also ended an action packed day but was just the start of some sore muscles.
Day Ten – 10th July
The second and last day of competition, with just morning activities. I happily accept the challenge of land based activities but only because if I run out of puff I won’t drown. This time the events were all ocean based so I headed into town to pick up some supplies and to buy what I consider compulsory when past the Teopic of Capricorn – a Mango smoothie.
I got back to the beach to see some events that eventually concluded around 1pm. After something to eat there was time to start preparing for pack down as we leave tomorrow. There is always a tinge of saddness when good times come to a conclusion. A good time to reflect on what is important, what possibilities and opportunities might be out there but most of all thinking about going back to the same place doing the same things. Going back to the cold and the rain s well as theblong drive doesn’t make it any easier to come to terms with our time here being close to finishing.
Following the short awards ceremony in the early evening, I was determined to get some Broome sunset photos, some of which are below.
Day Eleven – 11th July
It’s Monday morning and time to leave sunny Broome to head back down south. I am not sure if having breakfast at the Cafe over the road was any quicker but it saved us doing the dishes and the Eggs Benedict was pretty tasty. It also provided the opportunity for Kerry to see her cousin who happened to be eating there too.
I was hoping to leave between 9 and 10am and it was closer to the latter before we left the campsite and went to get fuel and some last minute bits and pieces.
On the road again and planning where to stay as we calculate how far we would get before the sun went down. We were hoping to get close to Karratha but went through various options as we navigated through Port Hedland. Would we cook up some sausages then keep driving? But that would mean trying to find a spot in the dark. In the end we pulled over at Yule River camping spot to see what it was like. As we drove slowly along the tree lined river bank past numerous campers and caravans we decided that we should stay here since it was getting dark.
Between the White Gums were what looked like freshly mown grass patches, perfect for setting up the trailer and swags.
Day Twelve – 12th July
Kerry’s sister lives in Onslow and she asked if we could pick up some supplies from their closest supermarket which was in Karratha, about 300km away.
This meant that we were finally going to see Karratha. Despite having driven along the highway many times, I had never had reason to go this city so hadn’t bothered to visit.
There was not much time for sightseeing though as we went straight to the shopping centre, got what we needed and headed out. We wanted to maximise the time we had in Onslow. It was a surprise to see traffic lights and high rise apartments but I am sure there is more to see. Maybe we will have more time another day.
We arrived in Onslow around 2:30pm. Kerry’s parents were also visiting. The girls and I thought we might check out the beach to see if we could have a swim. We were disappointed that the ocean was actually brown. With the water just covering my feet, I could not see them, it was very off putting. Apparently, the recent rains had washed red dirt from the surrounding plains into the ocean and hadn’t settled yet. Not that it was ever very good to swim in. That being the case only two of us were brave enough to have a quick swim in the house pool.
After a nice evening involving a home cooked meal and catching up with family we were able to sleep in a temperature controlled room and a normal bed.
Day Thirteen – 13th July
Leaving a bit earlier than originally planned we popped into the Onslow airport to say farewell to Kerry’s sister before hitting the road again. Hoping to reduce Day 15’s driving we pushed on once again as far as we could before dark.
Always a mandatory stop is at Morel’s Orchard in Carnarvon to pick up a delicious Custard Apple ice pole. Since we had a freezer we also got a second one, a different fruit for tomorrow.
Unfortunately, the other attraction we frequent there is the bakery, was closed for the day. The bread is delicious but IGA had run out by the time we got there.
Fuelling up, we quickly got on the road. Originally, we had hoped to find a spot at Wooramel Station but they were full so we went a bit further to Gladstone Bay camp ground. Getting there as the sunset and only being there for one night the host gave us a reserved spot near the toilets and right next to the water. Prime waterfront location.
It was a bit windy to start with which made cooking teriyaki chicken on the gas burner a team effort – sheltering the flame from the stiff breeze.
Day Fourteen – 14th July
In April last year Kerry and I had hoped to spend a couple of nights in Kalbarri and have a look at the Skywalk there. The cyclone put an end to that idea. Since we were up this way, why not add another couple of hours driving and have a look then proceed down the coast road to Northampton.
This was after we woke up to everything being soaking wet from the dew overnight. We waited to pack up until after the sun dried things a bit but just had to get going so will have to dry out the canvas tent and swags in the coming days.
Knowing that showers were forecast and wanting to get to Busselton around lunch time tomorrow, we decided to book an apartment once we got past Kalbarri so we knew where we would get to.
Tonight we are at Green Head in a nice place called Centrebreak Beach Stay. Arriving just after sunset, we canned our cooking plans and utilised the downstairs restaurant.
Day Fifteen – 15th July
Not having to pack up the trailer today, I was able to duck out while the others were having breakfast to briefly explore the area where we had stayed.
There are numerous bays around Green Head and the one over the road from us was Dynamite Bay. According to the sign it was voted 19th of the top 101 Australian Beaches. Today it was looking rugged and rough but I am sure it is nicer during the summer months.
After restacking the already Tetris like configuration at the rear of the car, we headed off first to Bunbury for one of Kerry’s favourite shops – The Farmers Market. The shortest route was the freeway but I am not sure it was the quickest as traffic was moving very slow, at times.
Fortunately we were limited for room to store the goods bought at the market. I was surprised to find that we found suitable places to pack the trolley load of meat, fruit and veges.
The reason for heading home this way was to have dinner with Mitchell, Ashleigh (his fiance), her parents and grandmother in Busselton.
It was a great time of catching up, especially for Kerry who was not at the engagement celebration a few weeks ago.
I was able to set up the camper for an hour or so before dinner to catch the fading sun and dry it out a bit. Some cleaning up at Kerry’s parents house rounded out the night. It was a bonus to use the fireplace as well as the other familiar facilities.
Day Sixteen – 16th July
Today is the day we get home. Leaving Busselton just after 9am we head towards cheap fuel at Greenbushes. Following a winding picturesque route made more scenic by the fog, we ended up at Bridgetown instead. Google Maps got us slightly off track so we decided to forget that idea and press on to Kojonup.
About 20km West of Kojonup, Kerry spots this.
Confused and not wanting to leave him here, we turned around to check it out. There were a couple of driveways nearby so we ventured down them to the farm houses only to find no one around. Perhaps footy was on in town. We circled back again and decided to approach the dog to see if it was friendly and thirsty. He had no collar and didn’t seem anything but friendly. Not interested in the water we provided, Kerry rang the on call vet in town and we were thinking of trying to squeeze him in the car somehow to get his microchip scanned.
Just as we wondered how we were going to fit the dog in, a young couple heading out of town stopped. They had seen us gathering around the dog and it turns out it was theirs and he had escaped from their farm. They wouldn’t have seen him if we hadn’t been there. Someone must have seen him wondering on the road and tied him up. Surely if going to that effort, it would have been better to leave him tied up near a farm gate so he could be seen easily. Anyway, with the mystery solved we carried on with our journey making sure we stopped for lunch at the bakery.
That’s it folks. Home at last. That 200km from Ravensthorpe is the longest with home being so close.
I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures. Thanks to God for safe travels, seeing places we haven’t seen before, the physical abilities we have and most of all – no car problems.
CamisGWare 